Warung Ibu Raeni

Warung Ibu Raeni is a small, family-run warung on Jl. Ikan Paus in the village behind the main strip. It specialises in lalapan, the Sasak and Javanese way of eating grilled fish, squid or chicken with rice, raw vegetables and fresh sambal. Seafood is cooked over a wood fire, which gives it a smoky flavour you rarely get at the beachfront grills.

The grilled squid and whole fish are the dishes to order, and the sambal is made fresh. Portions are generous and prices are well below the beach restaurants. The owners are known for being welcoming and will often accommodate requests, such as a vegetable soup that is not on the menu.

It opens in the evening only, from 17:00 to 22:30, and is closed on Thursdays and Fridays. The dining room is simple but tidy. It is a good choice when you want an authentic local meal away from the tourist strip; follow the lanes inland from the night market area or use a map pin.