Restoran Taliwang H. Moerad

Taliwang H. Moerad is one of the best-known places in Mataram to try ayam taliwang, the spicy grilled chicken dish that originated with the Taliwang community who settled in Karang Taliwang. It occupies an old, slightly dim building on Jalan Pelikan near the city centre, and the focus is firmly on the food rather than the decor.

The chicken used is ayam kampung muda, young free-range birds that are smaller and leaner than battery chickens, grilled or fried and doused in a chilli, garlic and shrimp-paste sauce. Order it alongside plecing kangkung, water spinach with tomato sambal, and beberuk terong, a raw aubergine relish. Bebalung (beef rib soup) and sate sum-sum are other house specialities. A whole young chicken costs around Rp 75,000, slightly more than at simpler warungs, but regulars say the quality justifies it.

It is open from 07:00 to 22:00 daily and is busy at lunchtime with office workers. Spice levels are high, so ask for the sauce on the side if you are cautious. Parking is available, and most taxi and Grab drivers know the restaurant by name.