
Mataram is Lombok's capital and its largest city, made up of the old port of Ampenan, the government centre of Mataram itself and the market and shopping district of Cakranegara. Few visitors stay long, but it is worth a day for the food, the markets and a feel for everyday Lombok life.
This is the best place on the island to eat ayam taliwang, the spicy grilled chicken named after a Mataram neighbourhood, along with plecing kangkung, sate rembiga and beberuk terong. Local restaurants are inexpensive and busy at lunch. The Mayura water palace and the Pura Meru temple in Cakranegara reflect the island's Balinese Hindu heritage, and Ampenan's old Dutch-era shopfronts are good for a wander.
Mataram has the island's main hospitals, malls and banks, and city hotels are a sensible stop the night before an early flight or a Rinjani start. The airport at Praya is about 45 minutes away.