Taliwang Khas Pak Udin

Taliwang Khas Pak Udin is a no-frills local favourite in Cakranegara, Mataram's old commercial district, and one of the names Lombok people mention first when asked where to eat ayam taliwang. It has a 4.5 Google rating from close to 2,900 reviews.

The menu is short and focused: grilled or fried taliwang chicken basted in a chilli, garlic and shrimp-paste spice paste, served with plecing kangkung, peanut-sauced sides, sate and steamed rice. The cooking is fiery and smoky, and many regulars rate it above the bigger, more polished taliwang restaurants. Seating is basic and the atmosphere is that of a busy neighbourhood warung, which is part of the appeal.

It opens in the evening only, daily from 17:00 to 23:00, and is at its liveliest from around 19:00. Prices are low, cash is the norm, and English is limited, so pointing at dishes works fine. Ask for 'tidak terlalu pedas' if you want it a little less spicy.