Selong Belanak

West of Kuta, the coast road winds over headlands and drops into a string of bays: Mawun, Tampah, Mawi and the wide crescent of Selong Belanak. This is the quieter side of the south coast, with fewer shops and more space, and many people prefer to base themselves here and drive into Kuta for dinner.

Selong Belanak is one of the best beginner surf beaches in Indonesia. The sand bottom and gentle rolling waves make it ideal for first lessons, and boards and instructors wait on the beach every morning. Mawi, further west, is a powerful reef break for experienced surfers. Mawun is a sheltered bay that is often calm enough for swimming.

Accommodation here leans towards boutique resorts and villas on the hillsides, with a handful of beachfront hotels and surf retreats. Bring cash: ATMs are limited outside Kuta. Water buffalo still cross the beach at Selong Belanak in the late afternoon, which tells you most of what you need to know about the pace.